The Birthday Cake That Goes Against the Rules

Whipped cream cake with Italian buttercream frosting

For my youngest son’s birthday, he requested a whipped cream cake with Italian buttercream frosting.

This cake is ultra-rich, and the process of making it goes against conventional methods — kinda like my youngest, who is creative and resourceful. Over the past few years we’ve settled on a different cake for each birthday, from Boston cream pie to German chocolate cake to this year’s vanilla-forward creation. It’s fun to look back at all of it.

I remember him as the most easy-going baby, who smiled at everyone and everything (especially his own farts, but that’s a story for another time).

In our family line, my father, grandfather, and great-grandfather all had sons. No daughters. Between my two sons and three stepsons in our blended family, it’s all boys, all the time.

But I relate most to my youngest, because I too was the youngest. I remember watching my brother go off to college — which is happening this year for him.

We youngests have always charted our own course, created our own energy, and taken advantage of every bit of parenting grace that comes with being the baby of the family.

We also struggle at times to make sense of things. We can feel excluded. It can be lonely being at the tail end of the hand-me-down chain.

But that’s where our identity and independence are forged. We find our own way forward.

We hope you enjoy this cake.

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Recipe 1: Whipped Cream Cake

Adapted from Rose Levy Beranbaum’s Rose’s Heavenly Cakes

The genius of this cake is that there’s no butter added separately — the butterfat in the heavy cream does all that work. The result is a perfectly even, exceptionally moist and tender crumb. Bake it in a fluted tube pan for both structure and presentation.

Special Equipment: One 10-cup metal fluted tube pan is traditionally used for this cake; however, we used two 8-inch round cake pans to convert it into a birthday cake configuration.

Ingredients

• 3 large eggs (150 g / ½ cup plus 1½ tablespoons)

• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (5 ml)

• 2¼ cups bleached cake flour, sifted into the cup and leveled off (or bleached all-purpose flour / 225 g)

• 2 teaspoons baking powder

• ¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

• 1½ cups heavy cream, cold (348 g / 357 ml) — see Baking Notes below

• 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, preferably superfine (225 g)

Instructions

Preheat to 375°F.

Thirty minutes to one hour ahead, whisk the eggs and vanilla together in a measuring cup. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and set on the counter. Do not refrigerate. In a stand mixer bowl, measure out the cream. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt, then sift onto a sheet of parchment.

Make the Batter

1. Attach the whisk beater and whip the cream, starting on low speed and gradually raising to medium-high as it thickens, until stiff peaks form.

2. On medium-high speed, gradually beat the egg mixture into the whipped cream. The mixture will thicken to a mayonnaise-like consistency.

3. Gradually beat in the sugar. It should take about 30 seconds to incorporate.

4. Detach the bowl and whisk beater from the stand.

5. Add half the flour mixture and fold in with the whisk attachment until most of it disappears.

6. Add the remaining flour mixture and fold until all traces of flour have disappeared.

7. Scrape the batter into the pan, prepared with nonstick spray. Run a small spatula or knife through the batter to release air bubbles, avoiding the bottom of the pan. Smooth the surface.

Bake

8. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted between the tube and the side comes out completely clean and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center.

Cool and Unmold

9. Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Loosen the top edges with a small spatula, then invert onto a lightly sprayed wire rack. Cool completely before frosting.

Baking Notes

• Do not chill the bowl and beaters before whipping the cream. If the whipped cream is too cold, the eggs won’t emulsify properly.

• High-butterfat (40%) heavy cream produces the finest crumb. Organic Valley and Stonyfield are both good options and are widely available.

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Recipe 2: Italian Buttercream

Rich, silky, and not overly sweet. This is a meringue-based buttercream — it takes a bit of technique, but the result is worth every step. It pairs beautifully with the whipped cream cake.

I made it with European butter that was darker yellow in color than most butters. Then I mixed it with a dab of blue dye to turn it a mellow green.

Makes approximately 2 pounds of frosting

Ingredients

• ½ lb (226 g) sugar, divided

• 2 oz (60 ml) water

• 4 large egg whites

• 1 lb (454 g) butter, cut into ½-inch chunks, softened to room temperature

• 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

Instructions

1. Combine 6 oz (170 g) of the sugar with the water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once boiling, stop stirring and continue cooking to the soft ball stage — 238°F / 114°C.

2. Meanwhile, place the egg whites in an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.

3. When the sugar syrup reaches approximately 230°F / 110°C, begin whipping the egg whites on medium speed until frothy. Gradually add the remaining sugar and whip to medium peaks.

4. When the syrup reaches 238°F / 114°C, pour it into the meringue in a slow, steady stream down the side of the bowl while whipping on medium speed. Raise to high speed and whip until the meringue has cooled to room temperature.

5. Add the butter in small batches, mixing until fully incorporated after each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Blend in the vanilla.

The buttercream is ready to use. It can also be tightly covered and refrigerated for up to one week, or frozen for up to one month. Bring to room temperature and re-whip before using.

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Along with these recipes, please accept our wish that every year moves you forward.

Be kind, feed your mind, and … you know.